Winter trip to Burgundy
January 14, 2020, we set off for Beaune with Thierry Goddet, director of Cavissima. The program is packed with three tastings, and our mouths are watering. Our first stop is... domaine by Sylvie Esmonin for an exceptional tasting.
Tasting at Sylvie Esmonin
After a 1.5-hour drive, we arrive at domaine by Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin. In the courtyard, the view is magnificent; facing us, the vineyards of the Clos Saint-Jacques. The owner greets us and leads us to the cellar.
Let's get down to business with the Gevrey-Chambertin The village. Domaine It uses 60% whole cluster fermentation. During vinification, the grapes are vinified without being separated from the stems. This gives the wine incredible freshness. The tasting continues, and one after the other, the different cuvées... Vieilles Vignes And Clos Saint James reveals their secrets to us.
We were struck by the intensity of the wines' color. We sought to discover the winemaker's secret. According to her, this inky color comes from the small size of the berries and the thick skin of the Pinot Noir grapes. Some vines are very old, for la cuvée Vieilles Vignes We're talking about a hundred years. At that age, production slows down. The skin-to-juice ratio is higher, and the aromas are more concentrated.
It's almost noon, and stomachs are rumbling. The winemaker takes the opportunity to tell us about her husband's culinary talents. With all the time she spends in the vineyard, she admits she's not exactly a culinary expert. It's clear that all the decisions concerning the wine come from her. Another 10 years of work ahead for this woman known as Parpallou (butterfly). Quite a character, full of energy and personality, who puts her heart, her expertise, and her passion into the organic management of her beautiful vineyard. domaine.
Château de La Tour
A quick stop at a Burgundian roadside inn to recharge our batteries and here we are already at Château de La Tour in the heart of Clos of Vougeot. THE domaine owns 6 hectares of the 50 hectares of clos. He is the main owner and the only one of the 80 owners to make wine on the premises.
We then meet François Labet who has taken over the domaine family. He makes wine in organic and in biodynamics with incredible exacting standards.
At their place, they make “oak couture”, understand a winemaking process from domaine in casks designed according to the typical characteristics of la cuvée Of course… and the vintage. The cooper works with the winemaker and adjusts the toasting of the barrel after tasting samples from the year. For Monsieur Labet, it's not enough to be born into privilege. It's also about being well-bred.
This was followed by a superb tasting of red Burgundy. Clos from above the Marconnets, the Beaune 1er Cru at Coucherias, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes The 2018 and 2017 vintages are featured. The wines are luscious, with a beautiful minerality, marked by a fresh, menthol note.
Finally, we taste la cuvée Vieilles Vignes In 2016, 2015, 2014, and 2013, we discovered the diversity of this fabulous terroir. The aging potential of these wines is incredible, and each vintage surprises us with its unique character.
Domaine Jacques Prieur
We end this wonderful day of tasting with the Domaine Jacques Prieur and the meeting with Edouard Labruyère. His family, originally from Beaujolais, also owns a domaine in Bordeaux and established itself in Champagne. With its 14 Premier Crus and 9 Grands Crus, the domaine offers a range of superb vintages, each more typical than the last.
We have the pleasure of tasting their Clos Vougeot, Meursault Clos from Mazeray, Beaune Champs-Pimont Premier cru, Volnay Santenot 1er Cru, Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes in 2017. While the reds are magnificent, the whites are sublime.
Mr. Labruyère is demanding; he, who didn't initially seek organic certification, is now working towards biodynamic certification. Aware of the challenges facing Burgundy, he makes it a point of honor to push the quality of his wines to their maximum. This ambition and passion are driven above all by the desire to bequeath to future generations the purest possible heritage.
We're heading back to our native Lyon, filled with wonderful encounters and magnificent tastings. You can find the Château Of Latour and the domaine Jacques Prieur on Cavissima.com. A great way to discover these estates while waiting for your next trip to the vineyards.